Monday 21 October 2019

Good Time To See Tigers in India - India Wildlife Tour

A visit to Royal Indian Tigers

Tiger Tour in India with Birding Tour in India

Duration - 09 Nights / 10 Days

Destinations Covered - Mumbai - Nagpur - Kanha - Bandhavgarh - Umaria - Agra - Delhi

Day 1: Arrive Mumbai.

Arrive Delhi by an International flight. Welcome, meeting and assistance on arrival and transfer to the hotel.
Mumbai - is the vibrant and the pulsating capital of Maharashtra. For over a century, Mumbai has been a commercial and industrial center of India with a magnificent harbor, imposing multi-storied buildings, crowded thoroughfares, busy markets, shopping centers and beautiful tourist spots. The British acquired Mumbai from the Portuguese in 1665 and handed it over to the East India company in 1671 for a handsome annual rent of Sterling Pounds 10 in Gold! Later, these seven islands were joined together by causeways and bridges in 1862.

Overnight in Mumbai

Day 2: Mumbai

Breakfast at the hotel.
Morning: Visit the 19th century Jain Temple with its silver doors, the Kamala Nehru Park and the Ferozshah Mehta Gardens known as the Hanging Gardens of Bombay and the Towers of Silence where the Parsis dispose their dead. Visit Mani Bhavan where Mahatma Gandhi spent 17 years of his life working for the freedom of India. The Prince of Wales Museum has an excellent collection of miniatures (closed on Mondays).

Afternoon at leisure.
Overnight in Mumbai.

Day 3: Mumbai - Nagpur - Kanha

Morning departure transfer from the hotel to the airport to board flight (9W 111: 0710 / 0825 hrs) to Nagpur. Meeting on arrival at Nagpur airport and drive to Kanha (275 kms / 7 hrs)
Kanha - Kanha, 175 kms southeast of Jabalpur, is one of India’s largest national park and Asia's finest park. India’s one of the most successful conservation efforts of saving the Barasingha (Swamp Deer) was done here. Kanha National Park covers an area of 1945 sq kms including a core zone of 940 sq kms.


The setting of Kipling’s ‘Jungle Book’, it is a beautiful area of forest and lightly wooded grassland with many streams and rivers. It is the home of a variety of animals, including tiger, panther, and many species of deer, wild pig, bison, a variety of monkeys and other animals besides some 200 species of birds. It is also part of ‘Project Tiger,’ one of India’s most important and successful conservation efforts.

Overnight in Kanha.
Dotted across the landscape are the crumbling ruins of its past glory, be it chatris or cupolas, like palaces or old guard posts, all of which reinforce the magical and ethereal quality of this great wilderness.
Lunch at the lodge, visit the sanctuary by Jeep with an English speaking Naturalist.
Dinner and overnight in Ranthambore TIGER DEN RESORT

Day 4: Kanha

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner at the lodge.
Game drives are organized by The Park both in the early mornings and late afternoons by open jeeps and will be accompanied by a trained naturalist.
Once the tiger is spotted anywhere in the jungle, through radio contact with the drivers, visitors will be driven to the location and then taken by elephant back to the actual site to see the tiger. This is an excellent arrangement and is very exciting.

The park is closed between July 01 and October 31 owing to the monsoons.
Morning and afternoon proceed on a game drive to the sanctuary.
Overnight in Kanha.

Day 5: Kanha

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner at the Lodge.
Morning and afternoon proceed on a game drive to the sanctuary.

Overnight in Kanha.

Day 6: Kanha - Bandhavgarh

Breakfast at the lodge.

After breakfast drive to Bandhavgarh (325 kms). On arrival check in at the resort. Bengal Tiger
The density of the tiger population at Bandhavgarh is relatively high. The possibility of spotting Sloth Bear, Wild Boar, Leopard and Tiger is very good. The park is also densely populated with animals like the Chital (Spotted Deer), Sambar, Barking Deer, Nilgai (Blue Bull), Chowsingha (Four Horned Antelope) and is rich in bird life.

The terrain is rocky, rising sharply from the swampy and densely forested valley. The finest of these hills is Badhavgarh which is bounded by great cliffs and eroded rocks. The Bandhavgarh Fort, believed to be 2000 years old, stands at the highest point.
There is a temple at the fort that is open to locals only few special occasions in a year. Scattered throughout the park, particularly around the fort, are numerous caves containing shrines with ancient Sanskrit inscriptions. The ramparts of the fort provide a home for vultures, blue rock thrushes and crag martins.

Overnight in Bandhavgarh.

Day 7: Bandhavgarh

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner at the Lodge.
Morning and afternoon proceed on a game drive to the sanctuary.

The Forest Department has devised an ingenuous system of tracking the tiger at this Park. Every day, early in the morning, elephants and their "Mahouts" (drivers) are sent out into the jungle, in search of the Tiger. Once it has been sighted, a radio message is flashed to the Forest Ranger, who in turn informs the visitors in their jeeps, who are then taken on elephant-back, into the bush, to see the elusive Tiger.

Overnight in Bandhavgarh.

Day 8: Bandhavgarh

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner at the Lodge.
Morning and afternoon proceed on a game drive to the sanctuary.

Overnight in Bandhavgarh.

Day 9: Bandhavgarh

Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner at the Lodge.
Morning and afternoon proceed on a game drive to the sanctuary.

Overnight in Bandhavgarh.

Day 10: Bandhavgarh - Umaria - Agra

Breakfast and Lunch at the Lodge.
Morning proceed on a game drive to the sanctuary.

Late afternoon drive to Umaria railway station (45 Kms) to board the Kalinga Utkal Express to Agra. Board the train at 1930 hrs.
Overnight enroute on board the train. Move to Delhi by Flight / Train Delhi for onward Journey.

Monday 14 October 2019

Tiger sightings in Kanha (November 2018)

Safari In Jim Corbett National Park, Uttrakhand, India

It was that usual time of the year when I go and see the new resorts / lodges that come up around the national parks. So packed off to the nearest and one of the best national parks of India. Distance from New Delhi is 275kms, time taken is 5-6 hours. Most of the journey is smooth on a four lane highway, A small patch of about 25kms, around Kashipur town is a bit busy hence the speed drops here. So checking out the resorts and doing a Safari in Jim Corbett National Park was the objective of my visit this May 2017.
Reached Ramnagar by noon, had lunch with a friend, and went to see the new resorts that have recently come up. Lemon Tree Hotels are coming up with a good place about 4 kms ahead of Dhangadi on Ranikhet road. And the Taj group has taken over a resort and turned it around completely into a nice gateway tucked in next to a river. Dinner at Taj gateway reinvigorated my memories of working with the Taj. Food has been as delicious as always, and it gave a feel of a nicely managed resort in Corbett.

Safari in Jim Corbett National Park begins

Got up the next day, me and my camera fully charged for the next 60 hours of my engagement with nature. Entered by Dhangadi gate, and after doing the registration formalities the safari began with our baggage in the jeep, and camera equipment on our seats.
The First thing that starts to happen when the safari begins is deep breathing. You become conscious of your breath and start to enjoy it. Seems like you have just started to breathe. You can clearly visualize where is your breath going in, reaching, and returning. This is the magic of the forest.
Crossing the Sultan rest house on the right, and still getting used to the reality of Corbett, Gopi (my driver) braked, keenly looked upwards, and in a low tone hushed and pointed a Long-tailed Broadbill on the tree to our left. I saw it, and was mesmerized by this rare beauty.


Long-tailed Broadbill

This was an ominous beginning to our safari. We continued and in another 20 minutes of drive, he barked again. This time he looked over his right shoulder, pointing at a distance of about 40 meters in anesthetic tone he murmured, “Sir, Yellow-throated Marten”. I saw it looking towards me, I lifted my camera and off it went. Photo taken only in my mind.

Dhikala Forest Rest House

After a good one and half hour of the drive, we reached the famous Dhikala Forest Rest House. Over 100 years old, overlooking the Ramganga river and the foothills of Shivalik. Checked in quickly, finished, left our bags in the allocated hutment, and had perhaps one of the best breakfasts ever. Fresh Aloo Poori, and a cardamom tea.


Old FRH in Dhikala

The afternoon safari in Jim Corbett National Park in Dhikala zone usually starts towards Sambhar road until there is some news from Thandi Sadak. So we also moved towards the area, and before long crossed over the wooden bridge on the Ramganga river.
While on the bridge, the driver noticed a Checkered Keelback snake with something in his mouth. Unsure of what it was, I clicked for records sake, and was happy that Gopi noticed the Snake right on the bridge. I have often noticed that almost all the drivers are very careful while driving in the national park. Nothing living to a naked eye ever goes under their wheels.


Checkered Keelback

Crossed the river and reached the water hole, popularly known as the swimming pool of the legendary Paarwali. She was not around. Par means “the other side of the river”. So Paarwali means a Tigress on the other side of the river. Spent some time looking for her, no luck. Got back to the rest house, the vehicles that came last said that they saw her crossover from one side of the bus to the other. No regrets, as we knew we had 3 more safaris to go.
Next day morning, the search for Paaro began again. While on Sambar road, we saw a herd of Elephants crossing the river, it was but obvious that they would do the dust bath before heading into the woodland. Stopped, and how one hour went by, did not realize.


Asian Elephant gives a dust bath

What followed this was even more spectacular and totally unexpected. Elephants mounting (mating)


Elephant mating seen from the Sambar road in Dhikala.

Gopi was getting a bit edgy as we were more engaged in Elephants while he wanted us to see Paaro. We relinquished to his wish, and crossed the river. Saw some vehicles coming back with some delighted faces. I knew they had seen Paaro. We did not even ask, and they voluntarily informed that she was sitting in her favorite pool for over 30 minutes. Gopi’s expression fell, not mine. Though I wanted to see her, but I was more than delighted with the Elephant show I just witnessed.
Same evening we witnessed another beautiful sight in the grasslands, locally known as “Chaur”. The sun was setting, the sky was turning crimson red, and I saw a lone Tusker at a distance. He obliged by moving into the frame, I lifted my 300mm prime and realized he was still not in a frame on my lens. Sun was setting fast, Elephant was moving faster, I had to get him in the frame, I asked Gopi to reverse. We backed good 100 meters to get this Tusker in the frame, and what resulted was something like below. What an amazing safari in Jim Corbett National Park.


Tusker & Sunset in Dhikala

A new morning safari in Jim Corbett National Park

Every day is a new day in a Jungle, and enthusiasm does not dilute by not seeing what you wanted to see, rather there is happy to have got something you never expected. The journey in search of Paarwali commenced. Crossed the river, entered the woods, and we see two vehicles standing in front of us, silently, with people standing silently, the only sound was the camera clicking. Even a blind person would know that the Tiger was in the vicinity. We found a small opening between the two vehicles, and saw this beauty sleeping just next to the road. She wanted me to believe that she had rejected our presence, but the careful twitching of her ear with eyes still closed signified that she had noticed and accepted our advent.


Paaro relaxing by the road.

After about a good half an hour she decided to get back and move into the bush. She moved in about 5 steps. And we also moved in about 5 steps. The reason for her movement was soon obvious. She heard some footsteps of unsuspecting deers, and she was alert. Ears, eyes, and all muscles focussed. The stillness was so magnetic, that  I also became still behind the eye-piece. Seconds, and minutes passed, she was looking away from the lens. I had kept my focus ready, but she wouldn’t look. Looking with one eye, and the second closed for long can be a bit strenuous on the eyes. But I did not want to take a chance of giving my eyes a break.
A good 15 minutes passed, it seemed like eternity and she was just not obliging me with a glance. I realized she was testing my perseverance. Soon a prayer started in my mind requesting her to look my way but once. Finally, she did, my forefinger fired, and she continued to look for a good 15 seconds without blinking. As if conveying, “Happy? Is that enough, or you want more?” I did not want more.


Paarwali, aka Paaro

I had just seen one of the most gorgeous Tigresses in recent times. By the time we moved from there, we realized that we had been in her majestic presence for over three hours. Three safaris searching for her no outcome, and then she presents herself, in her Kingdom, in the way she wanted us to see her. While I was wanting to see her in the pool, as I had seen her images on social media in a pool. But she had something else in mind, and I was euphoric with the look she gave me.
Time to check out, left Dhikala Forest Rest House and headed for the outward journey. It was about 11am. I kept my camera ready for the Elephants who always come to say bye to me on the road from Dhikala to Dhangadi. Gopi said, “not at this time, sir, it is very hot”. Well, there are no experts in wildlife is what I know. Half a kilometer into the track, and I see a herd on the left as if waiting to say bye to me. I said bye by taking the last image of the trip and drove back to New Delhi. Safari in Jim Corbett National Park had come to an end.
A complete trip in all ways, everything ticked, resorts, Dhikala, Elephants, and Paarwali graced us by her company.
Best Wishes
Sharad Vats